CDags.org DagForum: Recent Posts

Robert Shlaer on "Astrodaguerreotypy"

Robert Shlaer — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 21:37:08 +0000

Dear Demented Daguerreian Lunatics, I have just had this forum brought to my attention, and would be glad to have my article on Lunar Daguerreotypy (rhymes with lobotomy) reprinted here. I am done with the Lunar phase of my life, but if anybody would like to continue to pursue it, I have for sale the complete rig, telescope, guide scope, drive corrector, 4x5 custom astro camera, shutter timer, and everything else needed. Bulky and heavy, so you wold need to pick it up, at which time I can show you how to use it. Anybody who is interested should contact me at: <a href="mailto:easterlyviews@earthlink.net">easterlyviews@earthlink.net</a> To answer some questions: the moon is an object in bright sunlight, although its luminance varies with phase. My telescope with barlow lens was about f:64, and a full moon exposure was around 2 minutes, 4 minutes for first or third quarter. In trying to get crescent moon images, the exposure was as long as 15 min using hypersensitized plates, which is about my limit of endurance using a guide scope and manual drive corrector. The moon's apparent motion is very irregular. The automatic drive correctors with which I am familiar need a tiny object to use as the guide reference, so I do not believe they can work with the moon. Even though there are small bright details such as illuminated mountain tops near the terminator, they change continuously during an exposure as the illumination angle changes. It is hard enough to deal with one of them visually, trying to decide where the alignment point should be as the appearance changes. Exposure times over 15 minutes are in my experience negated by reciprocity failure, at least with Hg developed plates. Get around many of the problems by making small images, say about 1" diameter, instead of the approximately 3" I was doing. Planets are a loosing proposition unless you want a very small image, which will probably be indistinguishable from minor plate flaws. Not much point in that. You could do better with the point of a pin. Good luck, anybody, Bob Shlaer

Andy_Stockton on "Your latest dag!"

Andy_Stockton — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 11:44:10 +0000

Glad to see you back in operation Jon

Jon Lewis on "Your latest dag!"

Jon Lewis — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 15:30:46 +0000

My daguerreotypy has been somewhat dormant the past year as going back to school full time takes really sucks up the time. It's been about 15 months since my last 'keeper' but lo and behold I'm still doing some things right! The image itself is less than thrilling but the subject was chosen for convenience as a test for new plates using new copper and a whole new polishing routine. Though it is a somewhat quintessential depiction of Albuquerque. Details: 6th plate with a 1/2 mil of silver plated on 20 gauge copper. Polishing was okay but not perfect, need to work on the final buff more. Sensitized with iodine to a second cycle red (slightly inconsistent from the middle to the edge) and exposed for 60 seconds at f/4.7. The light was 14.5 EV at ISO 100 and the conditions were bright with high clouds diffusing a bit of the light. It was developed for 8 hours under rubylith and a 200 watt light at a distance of about 6". Fixed in Kodak rapid fix and gilded with Irving Pobboravsky's formula.

rivera1212 on "whole plate camera for sale!"

rivera1212 — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 11:10:20 +0000

i forgot to mention this camera is a Anthony Style folding tail bed camera, i'm trying to get you guys some pics here shortly

rivera1212 on "whole plate camera for sale!"

rivera1212 — Mon, 19 Jul 2010 18:26:04 +0000

hello i have a whole plate camera for sale! this camera is about two months old and came from the star camera company. it has inserts for whole plate 5x7 5x8 and quarter plate it also has a folding tail bed. this camera also comes with a matching tripod for Star camera. the camera has about 18 inches of bellows and comes with three lens boards. one is blank and two have been cut with a copal zero and about a copal three. i'm asking 1000.00 cheers!

CasedImage on "Collecting the Contemporary"

CasedImage — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 15:24:44 +0000

Two new images from Marc Kereun up on ebay France: <a href="http://cgi.ebay.fr/DAGUERREOTYPE-contemporain-Venus-de-Milo-et-Bouddha_W0QQitemZ180533745907QQcmdZViewItemQQssPageNameZRSS:B:SRCH:FR:102#ht_1021wt_915"><img src="http://www.cdags.org/wp-content/uploads/Venus%20de%20Milo%20et%20Bouddha.png"> Venus de Milo et Bouddha</a> <a href="http://cgi.ebay.fr/DAGUERREOTYPE-contemporain-Venus-de-Milo_W0QQitemZ180533754663QQcmdZViewItemQQssPageNameZRSS:B:SRCH:FR:102#ht_1018wt_915"><img src="http://www.cdags.org/wp-content/uploads/Venus%20de%20Milo.png"> Venus de Milo</a>

phuphuphnik on "More Advice Needed: Becquerels"

phuphuphnik — Sat, 10 Jul 2010 06:35:32 +0000

You should be able to put it back in. Yeah, there is a lot of overhead with dags, which is why I don't often gild. Why risk another 3+ hours of work to redo a plate if it is OK not gilt. I'll check my notes on times in the sun when I get home. (I'm working the weekend)Too bad too, good shooting weather.

yowyip on "More Advice Needed: Becquerels"

yowyip — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 14:44:12 +0000

phuphuphnik, thanks for the tips. do you think its possible to try to put it back in the hypo after I've already took it out and dried it off? or should I just re-shoot it completely? I'm scared to kill my plate. Ive been developing it in the sun 2 hours, not under lights, its pretty hot out though so I put two fans on it.

phuphuphnik on "More Advice Needed: Becquerels"

phuphuphnik — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 10:45:47 +0000

It looks like the plate needs more time in the hypo. Try 2nd cycle rose

phuphuphnik on "Becquerel Dag Trials and Tribulations"

phuphuphnik — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 10:43:27 +0000

Looks good. What is the f of your lens? I have discovered that iodised to the second yellow, f/5.6 at 1 minute in full sun is a good starting place. Fix until the plate is clear, could take a couple minutes. Are you developing in the sun, or under a lamp? you're almost there! chriso

yowyip on "More Advice Needed: Becquerels"

yowyip — Thu, 08 Jul 2010 12:52:24 +0000

My continued efforts in making a perfect Becquerel: I think I've gotten some better results than before, but Im not sure how to improve the image anymore, is this as good as I am going to get? My quandary is that I only have two plates and have to erase one of the Dags in order to shoot a new one. Plus there is always the danger of polishing the silver too much (I think each plate has been used 3 times each now, and im not sure how to tell when the silver layer is too thin). The first image had an uneven iodine layer because of a problem with the iodine fuming box (it wasnt sitting in it properly, and wasnt airtight). The second image I decided to go to 2nd cycle purple for a less contrasty image, but Im not sure the results were any better. I am shooting in bright sun which I think creates a lot of contrast. It is also quite hot out right now, so sunning the plates for development is a bit dicey (even though I have two fans on). I am considering shooting in only shade in order to get more blue light and a less contrasty more even exposure. Any suggestions? Glaring omissions? <img src="http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac108/yowyip2/dag1-1.jpg"> 2m 15s - f 8.0 - bright sun - first cycle magenta <img src="http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac108/yowyip2/dag2-1.jpg"> 3m 15s - f 8.0 - brighter sun - 2nd cycle magenta

yowyip on "Becquerel Dag Trials and Tribulations"

yowyip — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 17:13:59 +0000

Thanks phuphuphnik! OK, this is my first Dag I have done all by myself, without assistance, pretty good I think. But a couple of questions: -I only did a minute and a half exposure in bright sun, it looks underexposed, correct? -There's still a bit of a milky haze, I developed the becquerel in bright sun for 2 hours exactly with 2 fans, so hopefully heat is not an issue. Could I have also over-developed it? -I counted 45 seconds of fix time, though this seems kind of hard to decide... Tomorrow I will try the exact same image at a similar time of day and sun, but a bit longer of exposure time... say 2 minutes, 15 seconds? (45 seconds longer) or should I do a smaller increment? Thanks! <img src="http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac108/yowyip2/dag3.jpg">

TScaife84 on "Daguerreotype studio complete - together or separate - updated list"

TScaife84 — Sun, 04 Jul 2010 10:52:00 +0000

do you have the hasselblad back still? if so how much?

David Harms on "Introduce Yourself!"

David Harms — Sun, 04 Jul 2010 10:13:54 +0000

Hello My name is David Harms. I love any type of alternative process I am from the Seattle Tacoma area here in Washington State. I was a industrial mechanic for 15 yrs before I decided that I wanted to do something with my brain instead of my hands. I am a graduate of the Art Institute in Seattle in commercial photography and was lucky to be in school before the onslaught they now call digital Photography. although I have experience with new technology I always am pulled back in time. yes you can try to make an app for that but really you aren't fooling anyone. there is no replacing history and time. I have been doing Wet plate for a year now and really enjoy it. but just doing the process wasn't enough. I had to start from scratch and built all of the pieces for the puzzle. I started with a 12 x20 view camera building all of the parts to construct it except lens bellows and gg. . then plate holders dip tanks and trays. That is why I feel I am ready for this process and am ready for the patience it requires. Also I have the ability to listen and absorb anyone's input. and appreciate any knowledge that I receive to forward it in the future. to the next great Daguerre typist. I am also looking forward to gain knowledge from this great site ..thank you

David Harms on "Daguerreotype Mentors wanted Seattle area"

David Harms — Sun, 04 Jul 2010 07:47:35 +0000

Yes Jason I mean what I say, just give me a heads up and I will be there I am anxious to gain any knowledge I can and boring mindless work is important part of the learning process. Please email me when you get ready to work on the plates. Thanks <a href="mailto:David....davidharmsphotography@gmail.com">David....davidharmsphotography@gmail.com</a>

phuphuphnik on "Daguerreotype Mentors wanted Seattle area"

phuphuphnik — Sun, 04 Jul 2010 04:43:17 +0000

If you're already doing wet plate, then you'll have no trouble with the dags. It is an entirely different process, but you already have the patience. Dags travel better too. You can make up a bunch and take them out, no darkbox! Jason's offer as a good one. I strongly recommend taking him up on it. Never pass up a chance to get plates! Plus making them up with someone else is always better. My 2 daughters help me with the polishing the time passes faster. cheers, chriso

jgmotamedi on "Daguerreotype Mentors wanted Seattle area"

jgmotamedi — Sun, 04 Jul 2010 03:12:23 +0000

Hello David, As far as I know there are only two Daguerreotypists in the Northwest. I am in Portland, and if you are willing to come down, and really mean that you are willing to do anything (Dag related of course), perhaps I can help. In a month or two I will be preparing a large batch of brass plates for silver plating. It is a lot of boring mindless labor, but it will teach you quite a bit about plate preparation. Plus you can make some for your self. Not very exciting, I know. jason

David Harms on "Daguerreotype Mentors wanted Seattle area"

David Harms — Sat, 03 Jul 2010 18:50:52 +0000

Hi I am in search of a mentor to guide me through the wonderful world of Daguerreotypes. I am 100% willing to work hard. I have a very positive attitude and am willing to do anything. I have many talents and can build anything needed for the process. right now I am working in Ambrotypes. If you are willing to take on an assistant you will not be sorry. I live in the Seattle Tacoma area. Thanks....

phuphuphnik on "Becquerel Dag Trials and Tribulations"

phuphuphnik — Sat, 03 Jul 2010 05:45:50 +0000

Give the plates a good rinse with denatured alcohol before the final buff, that'll go a long way towards getting the other stuff off. What colour are you sensitizing to? I like the second yellow myself. You are getting an image, so that is something! The sun will give you faster results, but it can get just as hot as a lamp. I use a 500 watt light 10 inches above the plate with a squirrel cage fan blowing directly on the amberlith. It takes between 45 minutes and 6 hours to bring the image out for me. If you are guilding the image I would stop doing it at this point, it will serve no use until you get better images. These look like they might of cooked, so your too hoe theory is valid. Keep up the good work! you are almost there and the next 5 or so trys you'll have it. One more bit of advice, if you don't mind is only change one thing at a time. If you think it is the Methyl Hydrate, then change that and leave everything else alone, if you think it is the heat then cool the plate better. If you change more than one thing, you may not know which it was that was fouling the plate. This process takes longer, but you'll learn more. (this is from the American Handbook of the Daguerreotype)

yowyip on "Becquerel Dag Trials and Tribulations"

yowyip — Fri, 02 Jul 2010 09:07:23 +0000

Hi There, Below are my first (failed) attempts at making a Becquerel. I was hoping I could get some help diagnosing the problems with them in order to know what went wrong before I proceed further. The first had some residue left behind from the polishing I think. -What also might have been a problem is that we used Methyl Hydrate as a substitute for Mineral Spirits. -Additionally there is some fogging that was probably caused during the development process as the plates got hot with the work lights we were using. What are the benefits/ differences of using sunlight to tungsten light for developing? -As a newbie it is also hard for me to tell whether these plates are underexposed or overexposed, the fogging doesn't help with this either. -the first plate has developed some brownish spots, is this tarnish, or a sign of something else? I will be posting my new plates and results as they come in the next couple of weeks. My mission is to create a successful Becquerel Daguerreotype in the next 2 weeks. Thanks for any help with this, Julia <img src="http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac108/yowyip2/dag1.jpg"> <img src="http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac108/yowyip2/dag2.jpg">

DamianVanCamp on "Any NYC Daguerreotypists need an assistant?"

DamianVanCamp — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 23:41:22 +0000

Greetings everyone. My name is Damian VanCamp and I'm looking to assist for a Daguerreotypist in the NYC area. I graduated from RISD in 2007, and worked for a beauty and cosmetics photographer for two years before the recession hit. Before college, I interned for a month at the Mary Boone Gallery. After having worked on the business-end of art, and the commercial side of photography, I would like to complete the circle by working/assisting/interning for an artist before applying for an MFA, and I would like that artist to be a practicing daguerreotypist. I fell in love with the medium my junior year of college, and have since been soaking up all I can about every aspect of it - the chemical, the technological, the historical, and the artistic. I am most fascinated by the sculptural element of the daguerreotype - the fact that it is, at the end of the day, a physical object made with precious metals. A daguerreotypist can be a photographer, chemist, jeweler, and, when there's no out-sourcing involved, book-binder, all wrapped up in one. I do have my own daguerrean projects in the works, but I also feel working/assisting for a daguerreotypist would be beneficial, since everyone here knows there is more than one way to skin this cat, so to speak, and one can never learn/known enough about Daguerreotypy and the seemingly-infinite methods that can be employed. I have had the pleasure of meeting with Mr. Jerry Spagnoli, Mr. Mark Kessell, and Mr. Sean Culver, and hope to meet other practicing daguerreotypists, particularly those who might be in need of an extra hand. My email is <a href="mailto:DamianVanCamp@gmail.com">DamianVanCamp@gmail.com</a>, and it, as well as a downloadable PDF of my resume, can be found on my web site, <a href="http://www.DamianVanCamp.com." rel="nofollow">www.DamianVanCamp.com.</a> Thanks! -Damian V.

rivera1212 on "out door darkroom for dags"

rivera1212 — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 15:23:38 +0000

Photolytic, thanks for the advice, i'm just in the planning stages because just like you stated i dont have the training just yet but i have a workshop with Jerry spagnoli in the works in july. this is an attempt to hit the ground running

photolytic on "out door darkroom for dags"

photolytic — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 14:01:06 +0000

I've had my glass lined iodine box in my house for 13 years. It has not lost any iodine. There is some discoloration of the blond colored wood but no odor. You must have the boxes inside and warm (20C) to get reproducible fuming times. If you are not going to be using the box for a long period of time, take the iodine out of the box and put it back in the bottle. After all you cannot count on a fume hood to run unattended all the time without breakdown or power outage. Most Daguerreotypists only turn on their fume hoods when they plan to fume or heat up the mercury pot. Fume hoods should not be considered reliable enough for long term storage of toxic chemicals. If you are worried about your lack of knowledge concerning the handling of iodine you should not even consider making M-Dags until you take a workshop or a chemistry course somewhere.

rivera1212 on "out door darkroom for dags"

rivera1212 — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 09:25:07 +0000

what about long term storage? i figured without a fume hood i would have to keep the wooden fume boxes outside once i have put iodine inside of the box. i'm new to this so i'm not sure just yet the proper way to store this stuff.

photolytic on "out door darkroom for dags"

photolytic — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 07:35:59 +0000

You probably don't need a fume hood for B-Dags. So long as you fill your iodine fuming box outside the house, your exposure to iodine fumes will be minimal. Although the theoretical concentration of iodine fumes directly above iodine crystals at room temperature (20C) is about 360ppm, based upon Iodine�s room temperature vapor pressure of 0.275 mmHg, my measurements indicated that the actual concentration of heavier than air iodine fumes at the top of my fuming box was only 0.13 parts per million, less than the 2ppm chlorine found in the average swimming pool. <a href="http://www.healthybuildings.com/images/sce/design/Swimmers_asthma.pdf." rel="nofollow">http://www.healthybuildings.com/images/sce/design/Swimmers_asthma.pdf.</a>

rivera1212 on "out door darkroom for dags"

rivera1212 — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 13:27:52 +0000

hi All i don't a darkroom to set up B-dags so i have an idea but i need you help to see if it safe enough. i was thinking of buying from home depot a Rubbermaid tool sheds, the one that are about six tall by three feet. i figured i could build a fume hood inside and vent it out the top. with the shed door open i could then drape the doors with a dark cloth to keep it light tight. my concern is by doing this is that enough separation from the fumes. i believe the fumes will rise up and not gather around the shed. so if you guys can let me know if this sounds like a good plan

toddcondie on "ISO Mercury Pot"

toddcondie — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 13:01:12 +0000

Washington D.C. area.

phuphuphnik on "ISO Mercury Pot"

phuphuphnik — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 09:25:18 +0000

Where are you located? chriso

photolytic on "differences between Becquerel and Mercury"

photolytic — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 13:58:03 +0000

Have you have tried a collodion positive on a front surface glass mirror? They have poth positve and negative images just like a Dag.

rivera1212 on "differences between Becquerel and Mercury"

rivera1212 — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 13:37:50 +0000

thanks for the info! i didn't think you could ever fake a dag, i'm a collodion guy and i've seen people fake the collodion look with some success but i dont think they can fake that positive/negative shift you get with real dags

photolytic on "differences between Becquerel and Mercury"

photolytic — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 05:27:39 +0000

Only you can judge whether or not the B-Dags you get will satisfy you. The effort it takes to get started making good B-Dags will not be wasted as most of the same equipment and techniques will be needed to make M-Dags anyway. Judging by the reports of other beginners on this site, many are thrilled with even the most rudimentary images at first and some subsequently give it up entirely, having satisfied that primal urge to make a Dag, before going on to something else like making fake, digital Dags.

rivera1212 on "differences between Becquerel and Mercury"

rivera1212 — Sun, 13 Jun 2010 19:15:39 +0000

hi all, i'm just getting ready to start making dags and i was going to start with the becquerel process but i finding other dag posting i've seen more peple are doing M-dags. i've been told B-dags don't have the same tonal range has M-dags and are lacking in the depth and 3D quality. i was just wondering if i should just start doing M-dags from the beginning or if the B-dags are worth doing. with the amount of effort thats required i just want the best chances for making a image that i would love. could you guys help with telling me the advantages and weakness of both. thanks \ michael

toddcondie on "ISO Mercury Pot"

toddcondie — Sat, 12 Jun 2010 08:41:29 +0000

Anyone have a mercury pot for sale? Or know from whom one can be purchased? It looks a little beyond my DIY capabilities. Thanks.

rivera1212 on "introduction and inquiry"

rivera1212 — Wed, 26 May 2010 16:07:26 +0000

i forgot to tell you their copper was a little rough but it did come with a protected layer of mylar to protect the surface as best they could, but it will still need to be polished out

rivera1212 on "introduction and inquiry"

rivera1212 — Wed, 26 May 2010 16:05:44 +0000

Dagwood, thanks for the reply, i found Eric before i came to the forum as well as Binh Danh out of San Jose ca, but neither one was will to instruct. i used to do etching on copper and i was buying my copper from Takach press out of NM. nice guys to work with! then i started buy from these guys in Monterey were i live. METAL SPECIALTIES METAL SPECIALTIES. 554 Del Monte Avenue P. O. Box 2473. Monterey, CA 93940. PHONE: (831) 375-0375 FAX: (831) 375-3382. e-mail: <a href="mailto:metspec@pacbell.net">metspec@pacbell.net</a> ... <a href="http://www.metalspecialties.net" rel="nofollow">www.metalspecialties.net</a>